Introduction to Stone Setting
Stone Setting Tips
Here are some very helpful stone setting tips provided by Gerald Lewy to help and guide you when working on gemstones.
When securing stones, please use a soft metal pusher. I suggest a copper or brass pusher. This will prevent making deep marks in the prongs, which can be difficult to remove later.
I use flat-edge and tapered-edge pumice wheels of #180 grit on all of my setting items. It’s not because of being rough on my work. It’s because it’s a mark of a ‘careful, high quality setter’. I remove all of the plier marks, graver slipping, andjust the general rough edges left by the ‘casing house’.
When bright-cutting the inside bezel for a ‘gypsy’ set stone, apply downward pressure with your finger to the #39 flat graver. This will give you a consistent applied control to the cutting tool and not leave a jagged edge when cutting.
When you are working with many diamonds it is advisable to pull out your lap tray under your bench peg. This will surely help you in retrieving dropped stones. I always lay a rubber pad in the tray, as this will prevent bouncing of the lightweight stones.
Use a smaller round
…Gerry Lewy
With over 40 years experience as a stone setter, Gerry Lewy is known throughout the diamond setting community. Gerry started his 9-year apprenticeship with a jewelry manufacturer and tutored by a gentleman ‘setter’, in Haddon Gardens, London. Gerry has redeveloped himself into more than a master setter, his purpose is now to be a teacher of the art as well.
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